30/09/2008
29/09/2008
28/09/2008
26/09/2008
25/09/2008
Finally getting into China at long last
We have spent the last 3 months worrying about how to get into China. It felt as though we were cursed. In April with our HK ID card, we could have got a one year multiple entry visa, then the Tibet protests stopped that. Until recently it was possible to get a visa in Almaty, but the Chinese embassy there has now become like Fort Knox – no-one can get in, let alone apply for a visa. We have spent so many sleepless nights worrying about how to get into China, we've heard reports of people being refused entry on bicycles, about cyclists being thrown out of hotels once they do get in, of other cyclists being told that the border was closed to foreigners.......it has been hell. Last night I woke up several times and as we cycled the last 20km to the border my heart was racing with apprehension, I was nearly sick.
This has now all changed – we are now in China – and it's ovely.YEAH!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Once through customs we couldn't stop grinning – our cycle ride to Nepal is still on. We got across the border with absolutely no trouble and the officials were super friendly. They didn't mind that we had had to fly all the way to Hong Kong to get our visa, I think they were just surprised to see any foreigners entering China from Kazakhstan seeing as how they've made it so hard this year. The English speaking border guards were desperate to help, we were moved to the front of queues, and customs was straightforward. Once in Korgas it was easy to get a room in a hotel and compared to Kazkahstan the quality and price is astonishing.
I was reading in a newspaper in Almaty, that this year China has had less tourists than for many years, despite the Olympics. The Tibet protests caused such panic about press exposure that all the visa restrictions were imposed. It's a shame that the government of China isn't more confident. It seems to be doing a good job leading a country that only a few years ago was considered part of the developing world. My electronic key card hotel room, with ensuite bathroom and aircon seems to tell a different story.
chinaontheroad
Kazakhstan - Contents
Culture 
Graveyard Domes
Roadside Companions
Almaty
President Nazarbaev
Travelling by Train
Landscape
Roadside Views in Northern Kazakhstan
The amazing Charyn Canyon
Landscapes
Our Hidden Campsite
Why we love Central Asia 
Registration and Visas
Registering your visa
Trying to get a Chinese Visa in Almaty
Getting a Visa and onward travel
Border Crossing
Russia to Kazakhstan
Travellers
Frank Van Rijn - a Dutch cycling legend
Vincent our Taiwanese friend
24/09/2008
23/09/2008
Charyn Canyon - One of the best sights in Kazakhstan
About 200km from Almaty is an amazing natural wonder called Charyn Canyon.
Here's how it's described by the Kazakhs:
It's spectacular and well worth the visit. So many people seem to just drive there from Almaty, look over the side for an hour and then head back. They are making a great mistake. The canyon has loads of great viewpoints at the top and it is possible to scramble around exploring for hours. We eventually found the dirt road down into the canyon and were rewarded with spectacular views as we cycled down through the side canyon called the 'Valley of the Castles'. The initial descent into the canyon was very steep but when we finally reached the river we had the whole place to ourselves. Why there aren't more people there is hard to understand, this was definitely the highlight of our time in Kazakhstan. For Frank – our cycling companion - it was heaven because he could finally get warm. Guide books say that it is too hot here in summer but with all the glacial melt water flowing down from the mountains, this is hard to imagine. We would have liked to have spent a day exploring but we needed to push on to China to cross the high mountains before winter sets in. We left Frank basking in the sun.
kazkahstanontheroad
Here's how it's described by the Kazakhs:
It's spectacular and well worth the visit. So many people seem to just drive there from Almaty, look over the side for an hour and then head back. They are making a great mistake. The canyon has loads of great viewpoints at the top and it is possible to scramble around exploring for hours. We eventually found the dirt road down into the canyon and were rewarded with spectacular views as we cycled down through the side canyon called the 'Valley of the Castles'. The initial descent into the canyon was very steep but when we finally reached the river we had the whole place to ourselves. Why there aren't more people there is hard to understand, this was definitely the highlight of our time in Kazakhstan. For Frank – our cycling companion - it was heaven because he could finally get warm. Guide books say that it is too hot here in summer but with all the glacial melt water flowing down from the mountains, this is hard to imagine. We would have liked to have spent a day exploring but we needed to push on to China to cross the high mountains before winter sets in. We left Frank basking in the sun.
kazkahstanontheroad
22/09/2008
Graveyard Domes in Kazakhstan
As we cycled through Kazakhstan we often saw some amazing graveyards. This one was the best:
Frank Van Rijn - A cycling legend
On the road out of Almaty we met Frank van Rijn – a Dutch cycling legend. He hasn't quite reached the half million km mark yet but he's getting close. He's now in his 60s and still going strong although we think some of his clothing needs updating as he spent most of our 3 days with him complaining about the terrible cold.
His website: frankvanrijn.nl details his many trips, which basically cover the whole world. He is sponsored by Gazelle (a dutch cycle maker who pay for all his flights and provide his bike), Vaude (panniers and clothes), Schwalbe (tyres) and cycles for between 6 and 9 months a year before returning to Holland to write books and present slideshows. The only thing he has that isn't sponsored, is his brown leather shoes which he insists on wearing whenever cycling.
It was great to spend time with him debating how normal he is, the likelihood of aliens, the merits of clip on cycling shoes, dogs or cats? and Buddha not needing water for 60 days, although some of his views are slightly affected by the large amount of time he spends on his bike. He hates dogs because they always chase him (he carries an ultrasonic device called a Dog Dazer) and because they bark at night when he camps near villages and they once ripped his tent apart. (We think he left food inside!)
We went with him from Almaty to Charyn gorge and it was sad to have to leave him to head for China. We hope the cold in the mountains of Kazakhstan doesn't make his life too miserable.
Kazakhstanontheroad
His website: frankvanrijn.nl details his many trips, which basically cover the whole world. He is sponsored by Gazelle (a dutch cycle maker who pay for all his flights and provide his bike), Vaude (panniers and clothes), Schwalbe (tyres) and cycles for between 6 and 9 months a year before returning to Holland to write books and present slideshows. The only thing he has that isn't sponsored, is his brown leather shoes which he insists on wearing whenever cycling.
It was great to spend time with him debating how normal he is, the likelihood of aliens, the merits of clip on cycling shoes, dogs or cats? and Buddha not needing water for 60 days, although some of his views are slightly affected by the large amount of time he spends on his bike. He hates dogs because they always chase him (he carries an ultrasonic device called a Dog Dazer) and because they bark at night when he camps near villages and they once ripped his tent apart. (We think he left food inside!)
We went with him from Almaty to Charyn gorge and it was sad to have to leave him to head for China. We hope the cold in the mountains of Kazakhstan doesn't make his life too miserable.
Kazakhstanontheroad
20/09/2008
How to get a Chinese Visa in Almaty?
We finally arrived in Almaty on the 2nd September only to discover that the Chinese embassy in Kazakhstan is the hardest place to enter on earth. They should keep nuclear weapons there. People spend days queuing only to be told that they are now at the back of the queue, or that they are at the wrong door, or that they forgot to pick up a ticket and have no place in the queue. Some Australians who spoke perfect Mandarin were just told to go away. We tried a travel agent that had been recommended but he said that it was now impossible for him to get visas. We eventually found another travel agent who said that US$500 should be able to get one, but when he rang up his contact they said that this 'superb' deal had stopped in mid August. We investigated sending our passports by DHL to friends in HK who would try and get the visa for us, but all the travel agents said that they needed to see our HK entry stamps in our passport or pass our ID card information to the Chinese embassy. Even this inspired idea was doomed to failure and we also risked waiting 10 days and failing anyway. We also didn't want to do anything that would get us into trouble in China.
By now it was the 6th September and we were left with a horrible dilemna; either carry on back to Europe or fly over China to either Pakistan or India, neither option being ideal. We cursed the Olympics, we cursed the Tibetan protesters, we cursed the Chinese government, we even tried blaming each other but when we enquired about air tickets to India another outrageous idea popped into our heads...........
The following morning we were on an Air Astana flight to Bangok, followed by an Air Asia flight to Macau and a Hydrofoil to Hong Kong. Two days later we had a proper Chinese visa and then 3 days after that another Kazakh visa so that we could re-enter Kazakhstan. After a surreal 10 days in HK visiting friends and scaring them to death by just turning up at their houses with no warning, we landed back in Almaty on the 18th September and on the 20th we were back on our bikes. This has to be one of the most expensive 'visa-runs' ever!!!!!!!
kazakhstanontheroad
By now it was the 6th September and we were left with a horrible dilemna; either carry on back to Europe or fly over China to either Pakistan or India, neither option being ideal. We cursed the Olympics, we cursed the Tibetan protesters, we cursed the Chinese government, we even tried blaming each other but when we enquired about air tickets to India another outrageous idea popped into our heads...........
The following morning we were on an Air Astana flight to Bangok, followed by an Air Asia flight to Macau and a Hydrofoil to Hong Kong. Two days later we had a proper Chinese visa and then 3 days after that another Kazakh visa so that we could re-enter Kazakhstan. After a surreal 10 days in HK visiting friends and scaring them to death by just turning up at their houses with no warning, we landed back in Almaty on the 18th September and on the 20th we were back on our bikes. This has to be one of the most expensive 'visa-runs' ever!!!!!!!
kazakhstanontheroad
19/09/2008
16/09/2008
President Nazarbaev of Kazakhstan
Here's some nice pictures of the President of Kazakhstan. He used to be the leader of the Communist party when the USSR was around and really didn't want to split from the Russians until Gorbachov forced his hand. He's now led Kazakhstan ever since 'independence' and thanks to the enormous amount of gas and oil here has managed to create an extremely rich elite and a growing upper middle class (as well as somehow making himself very comfortable).
His picture is everywhere, with children, with gas pipelines, with outrageous city developments. This is all despite the fact that up to 20% of the population live below the poverty line and are really subsistence farmers. His daughter is being groomed to be the new president in a dynastic line reminiscent of Bush or the Kennedy's and has combined her own political party with that of her father.
Elections here are corrupt and denounced by international election observers, and Nazarbaev's political opponents are found shot, or end up locked up in prison during election years and with Nazarbaev controlling the media they don't have much chance to start with. For the moment Kazakh's are quite pragmatic about him, while the country is developing they seem prepared to put up with him. He does have some good ideas, but why doesn't he just give back all the money he's 'stolen' and step down from government? Does he think he's the only Kazakh who could run the country? Maybe he is?
kazakhstanontheroad
His picture is everywhere, with children, with gas pipelines, with outrageous city developments. This is all despite the fact that up to 20% of the population live below the poverty line and are really subsistence farmers. His daughter is being groomed to be the new president in a dynastic line reminiscent of Bush or the Kennedy's and has combined her own political party with that of her father.
Elections here are corrupt and denounced by international election observers, and Nazarbaev's political opponents are found shot, or end up locked up in prison during election years and with Nazarbaev controlling the media they don't have much chance to start with. For the moment Kazakh's are quite pragmatic about him, while the country is developing they seem prepared to put up with him. He does have some good ideas, but why doesn't he just give back all the money he's 'stolen' and step down from government? Does he think he's the only Kazakh who could run the country? Maybe he is?
kazakhstanontheroad
14/09/2008
Route through Pakistan - The Karakorum Highway
Here is our route from Kashgar in Xinjiang province (China) all the way to Lahore.
We cycled South into Pakistan until Gilgit and then took a dirt road West over the Shandur pass to Chitral in the far North-West of Pakistan. From there we headed South and East to Islamabad and then on towards Lahore using the Grand Trunk Road through Gujranwala:
You can zoom in and move around this map which is one of the great maps available from John the Map, who sells some beautiful maps ideal for the whole Karakorum Highway:
Click to Zoom; SHIFT click to Zoom Out; Click and hold to move
You will need Silverlight on your computer to view the above map. routemappakistan routemapchina
Click to Zoom; SHIFT click to Zoom Out; Click and hold to move
You will need Silverlight on your computer to view the above map. routemappakistan routemapchina
12/09/2008
How to register your visa in Kazakhstan (With map for registration in Semey)
When you enter Kazakhstan you are meant to register your visa within 5 days....this isn't the easiest thing to do, although it depends where and how you enter the country. You are looking to get 2 stamps on the Migration card that you have to complete before going through immigration control. Do not lose this card!
If it doesn't get registered on entry then your best option is to go to a hotel who will register it for you for a fee. This can range between $10 and $20. If your hotel (like ours) won't do it then you will have to find the OVIR office or Immigration office yourself. We started with the police station and eventually got to the right place. In Semey all the instructions for the registration form were in Russian and no-one was prepared to help us in the office. We were just a problem rather than people who needed help. Eventually a really nice security guard came and started filling it in for us in Cyrillic with our passports etc. and we then wrote an explanation sheet which we gave to the registration people to stick on the wall. They looked mildly pleased so it might still be there and of some use.
kazakhstanvisa
- Aeroplane - it should be done at immigration. Unless it's a small airport it will probably be automatic.
- Train - can get it done but difficult and involves nagging and begging
- Road - no one knows how to do it or seems to want to try. We kept asking but 'Nyet, Nyet, Nyet!'
If it doesn't get registered on entry then your best option is to go to a hotel who will register it for you for a fee. This can range between $10 and $20. If your hotel (like ours) won't do it then you will have to find the OVIR office or Immigration office yourself. We started with the police station and eventually got to the right place. In Semey all the instructions for the registration form were in Russian and no-one was prepared to help us in the office. We were just a problem rather than people who needed help. Eventually a really nice security guard came and started filling it in for us in Cyrillic with our passports etc. and we then wrote an explanation sheet which we gave to the registration people to stick on the wall. They looked mildly pleased so it might still be there and of some use.
kazakhstanvisa
Christ Almaty
Almaty is a posh place...a really nice city with lots of trees and wide streets with some cool buildings and lots of parks. The whole city slopes downhill from about 900m to 600m above sea level so cycling is really easy one way. Life is quite expensive here - there's so much money from oil that you can still see Hummers and ridiculous gaz guzzling 4 wheel drive monsters everywhere. Kids go to the private schools with bodyguards and anyone with money seems scared they're going to be robbed, with fences surrounding their properties and security guards. You get the feeling that the wealth needs to be distributed a little more fairly before they can all get on with living more relaxed lives.
This is a fantastic church in the centre of Paniflov Park:
The British Kazakhstan University
Another cool church:
kazakhstanontheroad
This is a fantastic church in the centre of Paniflov Park:
The British Kazakhstan University
Another cool church:
kazakhstanontheroad
11/09/2008
Russian Registration documents in the Altai region
The only document we got was one that had our names on one side in cyrillic - copied off our visas and on the other side we got a stamp and a date from the hotel. We kept the photocopy. This was the only document we had and there was no trouble on exit. We got it 2 days after entry into Russia via Tashanta.
russiavisa
russiavisa
Maps for Altai Region of Russia
For those of you who can't get hold of the Russian maps before you arrive, here's all the pages needed to cross the Altai. Please buy the map book when you're there. My scans don't have all the pages but will get you through.
routemaprussia
russiaroadguide
routemaprussia
russiaroadguide
09/09/2008
Our train journey across Kazakhstan
From Semey in Northern Kazakhstan we decided to get down to Almaty in a hurry because we're really struggling with our Chinese visa and want to give ourselves time to sort it out, whether to fly somewhere to get a Chinese visa, go West back to Europe instead, or fly to India and miss out the Karakorum Highway.
The Chinese visa situation is an absolute nightmare for so many people, there are people stranded all over Central Asia trying to get to India and the visa situation doesn't go back to normal until October 17th...too late for us to cross the Karakorum.
AAARRRRGGGHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!
We managed to pay a bribe to get our bikes on the train, only $15 each bike which we felt was reasonable.
We then had a 20 hour train journey which we shared with some very friendly Uzbek and Kyrgyz people heading home after working in Vladivostok in Russia. All flushed with dollars and looking forward to seeing their families. Some of them had been travelling for 7 days and had 3 more to go. That's one hell of a commute.
We arrived in Almaty at 5am and then cycled the 12km from the train station through an empty city to the house of the registrar of the new HaileyBury International School in Almaty who we'd been put in touch with by Jerry - Rosie's dad from Lamma who edited the Kazakhstan guide book for Odyssey. The registrar - Jack Helmsley worked on some of the translations and maps for the guide and has been a superb host for the last 3 days.
Kazakhstanontheroad
The Chinese visa situation is an absolute nightmare for so many people, there are people stranded all over Central Asia trying to get to India and the visa situation doesn't go back to normal until October 17th...too late for us to cross the Karakorum.
AAARRRRGGGHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!
We managed to pay a bribe to get our bikes on the train, only $15 each bike which we felt was reasonable.
Kazakhstanontheroad
Kazakh roadside views
As we entered Kazakhstan we could see lots of relics of the soviet past:
Kazakhstan itself seems fairly prosperous and people are all flocking across the border from Russia to come shopping here. All the old communes seem to be falling apart but people seem much happier and friendlier than on the Russian side of the border.
kazakhstanontheroad
Kazakhstan itself seems fairly prosperous and people are all flocking across the border from Russia to come shopping here. All the old communes seem to be falling apart but people seem much happier and friendlier than on the Russian side of the border.
kazakhstanontheroad
Hidden Campsite
It was too far from the border to Semey - the first big town in Kazakhstan so we camped by the road in some trees.
Cycling from Russia to Kazakhstan - Border crossing route information - Rubstovsk to Semey - Cycling guide
russiaroadguide
kazakhstanroadguide
russiakazakhstanborder
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