We turned a corner and all of a sudden it was different. The Valdivian rain forest was gone, the valleys bigger and the mountains more majestic. Now there are wild places, the fences are mostly gone and the gates open, there are choices of rivers to camp next to or swim in. Houses are empty or ruined, a legacy of times past, with the remnants of orchards providing tasty treats if we spot them. Bad roads feel like they are taking us towards more excitement rather than more bumps. This is good but a little troubling. Progress south might stall for a while with great campsites and views every few km.
We don't know what happened.